Kalymnos, September 2008
Week 1 : 14th - 19th - SOLD OUT (registration of interest only)
Week 2 : 21st - 26th - SOLD OUT (registration of interest only)
Saturday 13th and Saturday 20th are travelling/change-over days and no formal coaching takes place on these days.
Kalymnos has become one of the most sought-after sport climbing destinations in the world. Few other areas can offer such a range of grades and different climbing styles within a close, concentrated area.
Style of climbing- The compact, pockety slabs offer a great chance to hone your footwork whilst the steep
orange caves, dripping with juggy stalactites and tufas enable us to show you the body positions required
for steep climbing. There are loads of routes in the 4s & low 5s to warm-up on and all routes are well
bolted and equipped with clipper lower-offs. The crags are in the shade in the morning and in the sun from
mid afternoon onwards. This means that climbing after 3 or 4pm is usually impossible other than in winter
time. Approach times are between 15 and 20 minutes.
'Kalymnos - brilliant place, what more can I say!?'
- David (2004)
'An awesome experience to be climbing in an environment which offers such varied potential.'
- Pete (2003)
Style of coaching-
What to expect:
Coaching is a relatively new concept to the climbing world and if you've never experienced it then it can be hard to know what to expect. Our aim during this trip is to help people to realize their potential in sport climbing by improving their technique, leading confidence and use of skills & tactics at the crag. The way we coach varies slightly from trip to trip and we always try to tailor the course to the requirements of individuals and of the group. Sometimes the coaching is subtle, like a few suggestions about how to correct a fault, but other times it is more blatant - we might leap on the rock to demonstrate a particular aspect of technique.
The right routes on tap:
Another useful aspect of the coaching in Kalymnos is that we know nearly all the routes extremely well. This means that we can help you to select a route that will either play to your strengths or help you to work on your weaknesses.
Watch, practice and improve:
We also believe that it is important for you to watch us climb. One of the ways that people pick up bad habits in climbing is by watching climbers who are doing it wrong. When we're not watching you, we believe that a vital component of the coaching is for you to watch us. We are not armchair coaches and hope to show you that we can practice what we preach!
Technique demos, 1-to-1 advice & feedback:
A typical coaching day in Kalymnos will consist of a group warm-up and stretch with a discussion about the options for the day. Then for each climb you will be set a particular aspect of technique or mental performance to focus on. These are always demonstrated first to the group by Neil or Steve, but anyone who struggles can ask to for a repeat demo at any point in the trip. The day will finish with a warm-down and group discussion with the all-important feedback from the coaches. This helps to clarify your objectives for the following day, and so the process continues.
Videoanalysis:
When we have collected sufficient video footage we will conduct an analysis session in the hotel bar. If you've never watched yourself climbing before then this can be extremely revealing, especially with a coach to point out the good and bad points of a particular performance.
The best advice, 24:7:
Although the climbing usually finishes mid afternoon when the sun hits the cliffs, Neil and Steve are permanently on duty to answer any training or climbing questions, whether its at the pool side or at the dinner table. Often the most interesting debates take place away from the crag having had a chance to reflect on the day's activities. We're always on hand to help.
Future targets:
When the week is complete, we also intend to send you away with a clear understanding of how to make the most of your climbing in the future. As well as sending you written evaluations of your progress during the week, both Neil and Steve will be on hand to discuss your future training requirements during the last few days of the trip.
Push your own barriers:
The only thing we expect from you in return is that you have the basic will to push yourself in order to make the coaching work. Masterclass holidays are not boot camps and we believe that the motivation to do well in climbing must always come from within. It is only when you step outside your comfort zone that we are able to show you where you might be going wrong.
In praise of our Kalymnos coaching:
'Talk about opening up your mind to what you can do.'
- Brendan Uberschar (2005)
'One other great coaching element was (your) choice of routes for us - I am very impressed that you managed to get it so right for everyone with just a couple of days watching us...'
- Meilee Rafe (2003)
'Your genuine enthusiasm and approachability, both on the rock and off, made it what it was.'
- Sebastian Pepper (2005)
'Watching Neil climb was pretty inspirational.'
- Barry (2004)
'It goes without saying, that Neil is an excellent coach. …He actively seeks feedback from the group and acts on the feedback.'
- Gary Gerauld, Kalymnos (2005)
Accommodation & amenities- Please note that we make all the accommodation arrangements and that the hotel stay is included in the
price of the holiday. The Philoxenia hotel is ideally situated on the sea front in Armeos, right below the
crags. It has a fantastic swimming pool, with a terrace bar and serves great food all day. The rooms are
simple, clean and comfortable and most have balconies with dramatic views. Maria and George are the
proprietors and they always give a warm welcome. The Philoxenia is 3 minutes walk from the town of
Massouri where there is an abundance of restaurants and cafes as well as banking and internet facilities.
There are a number of secluded beaches, with great snorkeling, less than a minute's walk away.
'Staying at the Philoxenia was just perfect with the pool, very ok rooms, close to the crags, pretty close to the ocean etc.'
- Christina (2004)
'The hotel couldn’t be better positioned.'
- Tim Bertenshaw (2003)
'The island, hotel and its setting were spot on.'
- Brendan Uberschar (2005)
Food- The holiday price includes breakfast at the hotel and packed lunches which we provide. Evening meals are usually sociable group events in local restaurants but you may also feel free to do your own thing.
Breakfast
Greek breakfasts are fairly simple so please don't expect to be bamboozled. In our hotel there is usually a choice of Tea, coffee, juice, cereals, cake as well as bread with jam or cheese and ham. Eggs or a cooked breakfast can be arranged although an extra charge will be made to your room
Lunch
A 'Masterclass packed lunch' can consist of pretty much whatever you want it to (within reason!) We offer baguettes with a selection of cheeses, cold meats and tuna along with a few spreads and salad bits in order to have competitions to make up the ultimate sandwich. Crisps, nuts, fruit and biscuits always feature. Please bring a penknife or your own utensil. Bottled water is cheap although there is a well in the village for re-filling bottles. Most say this is safe to drink, but do so at your own risk.
Dinner
The traditional local cuisine is delicious and ranges from steaks and seafood to kebabs (Souvlaki) to Moussaka and Domaldes. Vegetarians are fairly well catered for but don't expect too wide a selection. The average 2 course meal, with wine, is rarely any more than 10Euros per head. On the last night there is also the option of taking a quick ferry over to the small island of Telendos for a bit of plate smashing and traditional Greek dancing! You've been warned.
'...didn't have a bad meal all week and it was cheap as chips.'
- Brendan Uberschar (2005)
'Top marks to Steve too for his excellent lunch choices!'
- Stephanie Charnaud (2005)
Extras & Entertainment-
We want you to enjoy every moment of your stay with us in Kalymnos. Although it's not always possible to
guarantee certain events, we will endeavor to offer a range of optional entertainments during the trip.
These may include a slideshow, of Neil's recent world climbing exploits, a 'curry night' at the
infamous 'Glaros Bar' (approx 10 Euros per head) and an evening trip to the island of Telendos for
traditional Greek dancing and plate smashing (approx 15Euros). Our piece de resistance: a boat cruise
with some Deep Water Soloing and a beach barbeque (approx 20Euros per person. We may also award a few
small spot prizes (generously donated by our sponsors) for anyone who we consider deserves them!!
'...the boat trip on the rest day was fantastic.'
- Brendan Uberschar (2005)
'Both Neil and Steve were very sociable and arranged some great nights out, and the deep water soloing & snorkelling day off was amazing.'
- Stephanie Charnaud (2005)
'Neil was a dedicated host and entertainer.'
- Claire Bonham Carter (2005)
'The addition of an ‘active rest’ day on a boat for a bit of beach, barbeque and DWS action, was very welcome and complimented the course ideally.'
- Tim Bertenshaw (2005)
'the slideshow was very interesting - I'd be happy to see more of them.'
- David (2003)
Guest appearances & new routing-
On previous Kalymnos coaching trips, Neil has teamed up with other well known top climbers who have made
major contributions to the coaching and to the group atmosphere. Adrian Baxter, who is one of Britiain's
best sport climbers, is a highly enthusiastic and supportive character and in future years we also
hope to involve Gaby Masini who performs many of the demos in Neil's Masterclass DVDs. We are very careful
only to involve those climbers who are keen to participate and share their skills with the group. We can
not guarantee guest appearances but we will do our best to arrange them. Seeing someone onsight an 8a+
and then hearing the post-match account is something not to be missed!
There is an overwhelming amount of unclimbed rock in Kalymnos and we nearly always take a drill with us so that we can equip the odd route during down-time in the evenings. If you are keen to learn how to drill and bolt then please feel free to join us at the crag. And if you spot a line yourself then we'd been more than happy to help you obtain some bolts and point you in the right direction. Beware that new routing can be time-consuming and strenuous. We'd only recommend taking on something that's easy to get to the top of and not too long or steep, otherwise it will distract you from the course and the rest of the climbing. Please note that this is not a prescribed part of the course but if we have the drill with us then we will be keen to make it happen.
Climate- September is a perfect month to enjoy both the climbing and the beach life in Kalymnos. The crags are in the shade in the morning which usually means that climbing conditions are ideal. It is nearly always warm enough to climb in shorts, yet is rarely too hot or greasy. There is usually a very light breeze but occasionally this can pick up and so a windproof top is recommended. When the sun hits the crags in the middle of the afternoon, they quickly become a furnace and the pool or beach are usually the only options. At this time of year the water is warm and temperatures are plenty high enough for sunbathing. In terms of warm clothes you will be unlikely to need anything other than a light fleece or sweatshirt for the evenings